A quiet moment. Taken from their website. |
Beerwolf Books in Falmouth is a bit hidden away. If you keep your eyes peeled you may see notice it tucked up a side alley off Market Street, but you'd be more likely to miss it. I wandered past, caught sight of the signage and had to stop to do a double take. I came back later; passing the smokers at the front door, ascending the staircase, noting the book shop, ordering half a Flensburger and sitting down to people watch in quiet.
It's a cavernous space - which is made all the more strange because it is on the top floor. All the exposed beams, the ancient, rickety chairs and the bare-naked floorboards perhaps help this feeling of space along? One bench was so ancient and so rickety that the seat aimed down and I kept slipping forward. Oh, the charm of the place! Between the creaks and the hushed mid-afternoon chatting I was already in love with the place. And I hadn't yet checked out the books. I'd already spent too much so only had a quick browse so as to not be too tempted, though the prices were more than acceptable. A good selection; though maybe too predictable? The framed posters of Bukowski, Ginsberg and Crumb around the bar looked great - were great - but are safe now; they are accepted as an 'alternative canon.' I'd have preferred framed shots of Gorky, Selvon and Stevie Smith; the real alternative. The girl on the table opposite looked so happy to be in a bookshop with a drink that she pulled out her notebook and scribbled three whole pages straight off. Brilliant.
I came back on the Saturday night to find the place packed, with people practically queuing for table space to play cards. We sat down to play too, but found our pack had only 47 cards, each one of which showed the signs of many hours manhandling. The room was warm and cosy, whilst outside it rained heavily. The vibe was friendly and bashful, all waves and smiles and eyes. I sat against the wall to look around - evidently the evening clientele were almost exclusively twenty-somethings.
"Have you noticed the action figures? asked Joe, pointing up at the rafters and above the bar. I hadn't, but once I looked I could see more and more. A nice touch. The atmosphere stayed cosy, even without an open fire, and as I sat back it dawned on me that I may be in one of the greatest pubs ever. Beer and books - a good combination, in moderation. A traditional pub with a modern and forward-thinking glint in its eye.
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